For Sale ...

Russian or Dwarf Hamsters
(Phodopus sungoris sp.)
&
Golden or Teddy-bear Hamster
(Mesocricetus auratus)

We do have some of both of these hamsters available for sale on a regular basis.   Currently we have the normal (brownish-Gray with black stripes) as well as the gray pastel coloring in the Russian Dwarf Hamsters and numerous colors and coats in the Fancy Golden Hamsters.     We hope to have additional colors available soon!     If you are interested in, see us at one of our shows, give us a call, or e-mail us.     All animals must be picked up in person and are sold only to adults 18 years old or older.    Sorry, no mail order shipments.

This care sheet is basically for the Russian or Dwarf Hamsters but the information can be applied to the Fancy hamsters as well.

where they can do just that.
                                   

Often referred to simply as "Campbell's", "Russian", "Siberian", or "Dwarf", hamsters,  they are very sociable and may be kept in pairs or larger groups. In-fighting is uncommon, but may necessitate the removal of one or more trouble-makers.   Sometimes there seems to be one that everyone picks on also.    We have no idea as to why but often once this individual hamster is removed, peace will resume.    

It has been reported that Diabetes Mellitusn occurs in this species, and affected individuals must not be used for breeding.    This is a form of diabetes that with a good diet and a little extra protein will have minor affect on a pet hamster, but again one should not breed them and continue to degrade the species.  We have not seen any of this in any of our stock but remain vigilant just the same. Selective breeding may help to eliminate the problem from becoming genetic throughout the species. 

It is also selective breeding that has resulted in our hamsters being so docile.  Russian hamsters have acquired a reputation for biting.  Our original breeders were bought from a family who wholesale rodents for a living, have been breeding Russian hamsters for years, and taken extra effort in regards to their temperament.    We are also doing the same with the fancy teddy-bear hamsters we are raising.       I can not say that our Russian hamsters will not bite but have confidence in the fact that they are about as docile as any hamster you can find.   We make a point to handle them often and breed only those with good temperament.   To pick one up out of the nest from a deep sleep usually will result in two big eyes looking at you with curiosity instead of a rolling body, growling sounds and a little nip - all of which is common with many hamsters!  Again, breeders should make efforts to selectively breed from placid individuals, and to avoid intensive inbreeding, which may worsen the problem. There are several color and coat varieties available in addition to the normal grey-brown agouti.    We have the "normal" and what we call a "pastel" color.    We are hope to have other colors available as our breeding program evolves.
 

Size and Age:    The Russian or Dwarf Hamsters gets to be about 4 to five inches - almost half the size of the common golden hamsters sold as pets.    Their life span is average 3 to 4 years and are capable of breeding at 52 days old!  
 

Native Range:    The original golden hamsters came from the Syrian dessert north of Israel.    The first captive born hamster was raised in 1930 by a zoologist from Jerusalem.    It is believed that ALL golden hamsters found in USA today can be traced back to this bloodline!  The dwarf hamster is a cousin from the southern areas of the former Soviet Union.  
 

Foods:      Any seeds and grains.   "HAMSTER" in German means  "hoarder" and they are know for the ability too stuff their cheek pouches ridiculously full of seeds and then take them to a den site to store or "hoard" them for latter use.   They will also nibble on rodent chow biscuits (although watch that they do not get moldy from being "stored" in the hamsters special stash!).   they will also nibble on vegetables, greens and fruit.   Be careful of the latter two for they will cause digestive problems (diarrhea).   We believe in the fact that a few extra cents in a quality food is well worth it.    It is far better to avoid problems than to try to remedy them.    Start with a good diet!

Some say that males tend to be more docile than females.   We have found this to be true as well.   Although the females are just as docile, when they are "in the motherly way" can be a little "edgy".    Remember they can breed at 8 weeks of age; average 7 per litter; and go in heat every 4 days!!!  
 

Cage:        Simple is best but you can go "hamster wild" if you wish!   Basically they need a clean dry cage with exercise equipment available.   They enjoy digging and running through tubes.    To meet these demands, we use a mixture of pine shavings and shredded paper for bedding and use pieces of plastic tubing for tunnels.    We have the traditional exercise wheel as well as various other items for them to climb and explore.   Water should be provide by a drip free water bottle and although they drink very little should be changed regularly to keep it fresh.   Regular hamster food is the staple of the diet and we may also give them other tidbits and treats such as carrots or apples or lab pellets or some alfalfa hay (which the dig through more than eat) and so on.  Cages we use are basically aquariums and all wire rodent cages but there are several types available - find one that suits your decor!    You can purchase "Habitrail" systems at a pet store that allow you to do the same and connect several cages together throughout a room or even a house!

                            Some of our Fancy Hamsters

                                                          

Avoiding fights with "new" hamsters can be tricky at best.   Here are some helping hints:

1)   When introducing two hamsters, the best way is in a completely
     clean, fresh cage.  Kill any residual traces of the smell of either hamster,
     and put in fresh, clean bedding.  Then put in both hamsters at the same time,
     and sprinkle mixed seeds into the bedding.  Searching for the treats will distract
     them from each other, and it does not take long for them to forget that
     the other hamster is a stranger. 

2)   If a fight ensues, take out the dominant hamster and let the one who is
     getting picked on in there for a day, then re-introduce them.  Generally,
     that aggressiveness will be lessened by the fact that the "stranger's"
     (the less dominant hamster) smell is all around the cage.

3)   On occasion two hamsters just will not get along no matter what.   In this case
     separate housing is necessary.    

4)   Normally a male and one or two females can be kept together with little problem or
     a group of the same sex can be kept together.   Don't be alarmed at "minor" skirmishes
     that may take place.   This is normal behavior and is usually related to breeding or 
     food squabbles.    As long as they are brief and occur only once in a while, don't get 
     overly concerned.   Always check for injuries though!

5)   In general, you can put a female in a male's cage, or an older hamster 
   in with a younger one with best results.  Females and older adults seem to be 
   the most aggressive and should thus be made the "stranger" in such a pairing.

BACK